Sometimes in the market we can find the claim of an encapsulated active ingredient or you can also find it as a liposome. But what does it mean? What benefits does it have compared to other non-liposomed ones?
In today’s post we will help you better understand this active way of working and the benefits that come with it. In addition, we will show you a serum that we are loving that uses this technology: the two poles night serum.
Encapsulated Assets
The act of encapsulating an active consists of “surrounding” the isolated active in a kind of sphere of a fatty nature to make it more biocompatible.
The fat component usually varies, although soy lecithins or phospholipids are usually used, and we find different release systems, depending on where we want to release the active ingredient.
The benefits of encapsulating the asset are:
- Ensure its effectiveness, since it acts where it has to act, in the layer of the skin in which the active ingredient is effective and acts.
- Improves the sensory and organoleptic characteristics, since some active ingredients add smell and color to the formula and sometimes this is not good or it is not something that the formulator wants.
- Increases the stability of the active ingredient, since it protects it from phenomena such as oxidation, degradation or interaction with other ingredients. It should be noted that retinol, for example, is a very unstable active ingredient, so encapsulating it will help us to formulate it more easily.
- In addition, by designing it in such a way that it acts on the layer of the skin that we want, we reduce the allergenic potential of the ingredient. Retinol is well known for irritating many skin types, especially those that are not used to it. By encapsulating this ingredient, we achieve that in contact with the skin it does not have as much irritant potential as if we applied the isolated ingredient.
Liposome composition
Normally, liposomes are made up of the fatty component that is biocompatible with the skin, a solvent, where we will solubilize the active ingredient, and preservatives and chelators that help keep the active ingredient longer.
These compounds vary depending on the supplier of the active, and can be more or less natural, depending on the requirements of the formulator. It is also important to know that there are certain liposomes that are not vegan, since they use compounds of animal origin.
Two poles. Night serum and liposomes
Taking into account the advantages of encapsulating an active ingredient as unstable and irritating as retinol, Anna from @partners.incream decided to incorporate this technology into their night serum. Thus we can find in the Two poles range, retinol at a concentration of 0.3% effective, and not irritating at all.
What is two poles?
Behind two poles is Anna, who behind her Instagram account analyzes cosmetics and advises those who trust her and come to her advice.
With two poles, she wanted to combine the goodness of natural formulas, with natural-origin emulsifiers, mild preservatives suitable for this type of cosmetics, with the efficacy and effectiveness of synthetic-origin active ingredients.
What does Two poles night serum have?
In addition to the encapsulated retinol that we have talked about previously, to emphasize that it is as natural as possible, we find bakuchiol.
This plant-based retinol has been shown to be similar in effectiveness to retinol and, when combined with it, reduces its irritating potential. Therefore, we have an effective serum that will avoid irritation at all times.
The formulation is completed by hyaluronic acid to hydrate and liquorice extract as a depigmenting function.
What is the two poles night serum like?
As you can see, it has a super nice texture, in the form of a light emulsion or cremigel, with a very good sensory feel, leaving the skin soft and velvety, nourished and hydrated.
Opinion by @inside_cosmetics. Micaela’s opinion
By the time two poles came home, I fell in love with the brand. The careful aesthetics, the packaging completely designed to be beautiful but sustainable, and the well-thought-out formulas. Very smart to use encapsulated retinol, since it does not irritate excessively (do not use it every day, only specific days).
Recommended for oily skin or dry skin, as long as you apply a moisturizer afterwards.
